Setenil de las Bodegas.
In cases where most white towns opted to adopt protective status on lofty crags, Setenil’s population opted for the opposite and digged into the dark caves under the deep cliffs of the Trejo River. The strategy helped the christian armies defeat the Moors in just 15 days in 1484 from their well defended position. A lot of the cave house built then still stand and are now being used as bars and restaurant. Just ahead is a spot you can hike on a 6km path (the Ruta de los Molinos) past ancient mills to the next village of Alcalá del Valle.
The tourist office is right at the top of the town in the16th century Casa Consistorial which showcases a unique wooden Mudéjar ceiling. The 12th century castle is just up ahead and it was captured eight years ago before Granada.
Setenil is home to great tapas bars that are great pit-stop to study its great urban design.